So where to start with Istanbul? I could opt for its “East meets West” geography or the “ancient cradle of civilisation” angle, but you will know all about that if you’ve picked up any travel article on the city in the last 10 years. So let’s explore a third facet of this intriguing city, that’s home to at least 13 million people, and in all likelihood a good deal more: it’s sheer unpredictability. 

Admittedly, this sense of surprise comes from its mix of cultures, being at the crossroads of Europe and Asia, as well as its juxtaposition of ancient and modern – but these are timeless qualities. There are more profound changes. The city feels markedly different to when I was last here in the mid-90s. Thinking back, my abiding memory is of a place that was overcrowded and industrious; somewhere in my archives I have a picture of a man crossing the Bosphorus with an entire filing cabinet on his back. I didn’t enjoy it so much. 

But new Istanbul, while just as crowded, is exuberant and diverse. With more restaurants and galleries, there’s more to take in, and you’ll need to prioritise your after-work time wisely. The clogged roads aside, it’s infrastructure isn’t that bad, with modern – and old – trams complemented by a metro, while hailing one of the yellow cabs is never a problem. Istanbul was recently short-listed, along with Tokyo and Madrid, to host the 2020 Olympics, but one shudders to think what the roads will look like in eight years’ time. A winning bid would require wholesale investment. 

However, the fact it’s made the last three is symptomatic of its growing stature. The country’s strong growth, coupled with events across Europe, have given it a clear sheen of self-assurance and a feeling that it’s in charge of its own destiny. “Ten years ago, we wanted to join Europe – but now they need us more than we need them,” quipped my Bosphorus cruise guide. 

Saturday afternoon on Istiklal Caddesi, the main drag in the city’s trendy Beyoglu district, isn’t for the faint-hearted. The last time I saw crowds this thick was in Oxford Street or central Manhattan. Street entertainment can be unpredictable in any city, but can anywhere match here? In the space of five minutes I’ve passed a clarinetist, saxophonist, recorder player, seen and heard many variations on the lute (single/group, traditional/electric) and witnessed a woman, dressed for a night at the opera, singing and tapping a tambourine – with operatic gestures, I should add – accompanied by an accordion player.

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